Day two of my Copenhagen adventures did not have the weather on our side. We had a lazy morning before we headed back into the city. We headed over the Christiana for a spot of lunch at Papirøen’s food market. Sadly this place is closing down at the end of the year and has an array of wonders to behold. We arrived just as the stalls were opening, the smells were incredible and instantly made us both hungry. I opted for the Korean Fried chicken. I have never had fried chicken that fresh! The communal seating area, alight with candles gave this place a truly Danish feel.
Having filled our stomachs, we headed to The Copenhagen Contemporary to see Yoko Ono’s wish tree. This beautiful installation is only available until December and has been scattered over various cities in the world. Grab a wish tag and write your wish and tie it to the tree. The wishes are regularly collected and will be sent to Yoko Ono when the installations end. They will be turned into an art installation at the Imagine Peace Tower in Iceland.
Our final stop on our rainy Saturday adventure was Nyhavn. This 17th Century waterfront is full of beautiful coloured townhouses, bars and cafes. As a main canal, it was notorious with sailors, merriment and prostitution. Hans Christian Andersen also lived here for some 18 years. Now it is a delight for the general public and the perfect photo opportunity on Copenhagen adventures.
Copenhagen truly captures the meaning of Hygge. You cannot help feel the ‘togetherness’ of this city and the cozy, content and welcoming vibe of this small city. There were so many other sights we saw in passing on our 48hour visit to this former Viking fishing village. Pick up a bike or hit the city on foot. Eat, drink and explore the happiest city in the world.
Copenhagen is one of the coolest cities I’ve visited to date. I have always loved exploring by foot and Copenhagen’s flat landscape makes this a breeze.
We hopped off the train at Copenhagen Central station and made our way up to Torvehallerne food market. On the way, we came across a beautiful park, Ørstedsparken. Open in 1879 and still holding much of its original character, it is full of memorials and classical replicas scattered across the promenade with a spectacular view of a lake which is the rememnants of a moat from a fortification.
Torvehallerne was full of fresh produce to satisfy every foodie’s palette. The perfect place to have a coffee and soak in the city. We then ventured to Rosenborg Castle to explore the gardens. Originally established as a pleasure Garden in the 1700s and to supply fruit, vegetables and flowers to the Danish royal family, it’s pristine manicured lawns were a delight to walk through, with the spectacular view of the castle.
We decided to then delve deeper into the city and head to Frederik’s Kirke. This beautifully ornate church is commonly know as ‘The Marble Church’ and was originally meant to be built entirely out of marble but due to budget restrictions, the dome (which is Scandinavia’s largest) was built from limestone.
Making the most of the dry weather, we walked north through the cobbled streets to Churchillparken. Named after Winston Churchill to commemorate the British assistance in Denmark during the Second World War. Passing St Albans church and Gefionspringvandet, we slowly made our way up to Den lille Havfrue (The little Mermaid). Elegantly perched on a rock, the life size sculpture has received mixed reviews by some, but I was not disappointed.
The photographs I took do not do these parks justice. The colours of autumn bring a sense of magic and capture the ultimate picture for sweater weather.
After an exhausting 10 mile walk, it was time to soak in the hotel’s pool and save the rest of my adventures for another day.
Reader, I have lived in a few places in my life so far and was lucky enough with a former employer, to be based in two of the UK’s best cities, London and Edinburgh. I lived in London for 18 months between 2013 and 2014, moving to Edinburgh which I left in March 2017. This is my personal experience and thoughts of living in both these incredible places and which is the best city to live in overall.
Public Transport London- The sacred Oyster Card. Who is a Londoner without it? It doesn’t matter where you’re going in the city or at what time, you will most certainly get there without needing a taxi. The well connected Underground have trains getting you to your desired destination every 2-5 minutes. Let’s not even start talking about 24hour buses! Your 3am flight from Stanstead will be a walk in the park.
Edinburgh – Now with the Trams, Edinburgh transport has gotten considerably better however there are still problems with Edinburgh’s transport system. Trains are always late and buses are nowhere near as frequent as London. If you’re enjoying a night out, bus timetables need to be watched or a taxi might need to be called.
WINNER – LONDON
Night Out London – London can give you the ultimate night out. Be it partying on the roof tops of Shoreditch or be tucked away at a cocktail bar near Holborn, London has the surprise of secret bars galore, so party until dawn with the confidence a night bus can get you to your door! The only downside is due to London’s size, it can take some time to bar hop from your favourite spots. (I used to sometimes travel between Angel and Liverpool Street and I found it quite tiresome). Also prepare to have very deep pockets as drinks do not come cheap!
Edinburgh – Edinburgh nights out are definitely filled with fun. You are within easy walking distance from the chic George Street to the bouncing hot spot of the Grassmarket. From personal experience, I have found Edinburgh has everything to offer and a much safer place to party without clock watching for last orders like in other towns of this size. Let’s not even start to talk about the spectacle of the Fringe Festival in the evenings! It just had to be experienced!!!
WINNER – EDINBURGH
Food London – New foodie phase? London will have it 3 months before you knew it even existed. Breast milk ice cream, Rainbow Bagels and Cereal Cafés, You name it! You are always within an arms reach of the latest flavours. My time eating through the capital had me picking off menus of countries my Dundonian mind could only dream of. You want Filipino fusion food at 3am? London is your city!
Edinburgh – Edinburgh has an array of bespoke bakeries to satisfy any sweet tooth (Stockbridge Market is a must), but sitting down to a meal requires some research if you want to go the extra mile. There are a handful of Michelin star restaurants but be prepared to have deep pockets! For you average grub, George Street is littered with flavours but somewhat lacking versus Glasgow.
WINNER – LONDON
Work Life Balance London – London is the city that never sleeps and from my personal experience, working your standard 40hour weeks is non-existent. Expect late nights and heavily socialising with work colleagues vs friends. To London’s credit, I found it did give me a multitude of skills in a shorter space of time versus other cities but came at a hefty price of 11pm finishes and 6/7 day working weeks.
Edinburgh – Edinburgh’s work life balance for me was much more relaxed. Your shift finishes at 6pm? You’re walking out of the door at 6.01pm. Even when I was promoted to a more senior position, my work life balance only altered by a few grains of rice. I wish I could say it was due to better time management versus my career in London but it is definitely not the case!
WINNER – EDINBURGH
Things to do London – London is full of sites to see. The centre itself is a hub of history and culture where you can happily stay a full day in just one museum. However most of these I have found come with a hefty price tag attached to it. I was shocked to pay £25 to visit Ripley’s Believe it or Not museum. As well as this cost, you are battling your way through the hoards of tourists which can be very frustrating. I saw a lot of shows in London and was more impressed at the work on the off-Theatreland circuit rather than the tackiness of the larger theatres, once again just catering to the tourists.
Edinburgh – Edinburgh is oozing with culture at every time of year. There are several castles within either walking distance or a short bus ride away. As well as this, the amount and quality of the free museums is phenomenal. Start up at the top of the Royal Mile at the Writer’s Museum and snake your way down the cobbled side streets to the bottom of Greyfriars and you will be overwhelmed at the knowledge you can accrue. The live music scene is Edinburgh is also buzzing, from the talented buskers in the streets to sell out shows at the Playhouse and The Usher Hall, the opportunities are endless. Did someone mention the Fringe Festival…..?
WINNER – EDINBURGH
So the overall winner goes to Edinburgh!
I love both cities and you never know, I might move back to them one day. It was such an experience to immerse myself in the ‘big city’ life for just over 4 years of my life and I enjoyed every minute of it.
Have you visited or lived in London or Edinburgh? Do you agree with my thoughts? Let me know.
Having a large latte macchiato on Wednesday morning, looking out the window and seeing the groups of tourists running down the street with umbrellas and ponchos, there was no question that I would be spending my day sampling Berlin’s finest museums. I was like a spoilt child, naughtily indulging myself as to what I would like to see. I restrained myself to only two museums. Tränenpalast, also known as ‘The Palace of Tears’ and The Checkpoint Charlie Museum.
The Tränenpalast museum is quite small and just outside Friedrichstrasse train station but filled with a real visualisation into the life of East and West Berliners during the Berlin Wall. My favourite section was the suitcase displays, showing real stories of escapees from East Berlin to West Berlin complete with artefacts of their lives. Another great part of the museum is the film reel. This collection of films are at certain points of the wall’s gestation and you hear both perspectives from East and West Berlin. There is also an original checkpoint booth which you can walk through. The reason why the museum is named ‘The Palace of Tears’ is because Friedrichstrasse station is where East Germans said goodbye to visitors going back to West Germany. Oh! And you get to experience this wonderful museum for free!
(Top: An interview with a border patrol officer with signs from the crossing.
Bottom Left: Suitcase life story. Bottom Right: Photograph of women having an emotional goodbye)
Going to Tränenpalast before Checkpoint Charlie gave me a real emotional insight into the day to day operation of the Berlin Wall. Checkpoint Charlie is the name given by the allies to the most famous crossing point between East and West Berlin during the Cold War.
(Top Left: Checkpoint Charlie booth. Top Right, Bottom Right & Bottom Left: Signs from Checkpoint Charlie which are now preserved in the museum)
There was quite a lot of dense text for those who maybe didn’t do History past Year 9 to give them a real understanding to the state that Berlin was in post World War II. Having studied German History all the way up to and inclding my University Undergraduate Degree, I wanted to explore the everyday stories, like my experience at Tränenpalast.
Over the gestation of the Berlin Wall, 239 people were shot trying to escape from East to West Berlin. The creativity people went to was incredible. One such story is that of this woman who smuggled herself in two suitcases. She was crammed into this small space, waiting for 70 minutes whilst border patrol searched the car before being allowed to pass through to the West.
(Photo of a woman being smuggled across the border in two suitcases)
The museum is quite vast, spanning 3 floors. It even had a section around Germany’s support towards its neighbouring countries following the collapse of communism and the change of Eastern Europe. There is not a corner of this museum that isn’t filled with an interesting story, artefact or painting. There are also sections of the Berlin Wall in the museum as well if you don’t have time to experience the East Side Gallery. It is not a cheap museum to visit, at €14.50 but you definitely get bang for your buck and as I said before, caters to all demographics and expertise on the subject matter.
Between these two museums, they are quite emotionally draining hearing about the struggles this city has faced over decades. The remainder of my day was spent buying last minute souvenirs and writing postcards for my nearest and dearest and then I relaxed at the Hotel pool and went for a swim and sauna. After I had dried off, I had a cheeky cocktail or two in the Hotel’s Piano Lounge and then hit the town for another scrumptious dinner. What a way to end my holiday!
(Some photos of the Hotel Piano Lounge and Terrace)
To conclude reader, I would like to share a quote with you that perfectly sums up my brief time in this wonderful city
“Berlin, the greatest cultural extravaganza that one could imagine.” – David Bowie
(Writing some Postcards to my nearest & dearest before going home)
After a morning exploring the wonders of Mitte, I took the bus to the East Side Gallery. Before I travelled to Berlin, I was so excited to visit this segment of the Berlin Wall, and it did not disappoint.
I got off the bus at Ostbahnhof and it was just a few minutes walk away. The 1316m piece of the wall displays 105 paintings. It is perhaps the longest-lasting and largest open air gallery in the world, having been founded in 1990.
(Segments of the Berlin Wall)
The Berlin Wall was erected in 1961 and divided the city into two sections for nearly 30 years. I visited Tränenpalast and Checkpoint Charlie on my final day in Berlin so I will share more in my third and final blog post.
(Memorial sections of the wall dedicated to escapees)
Sadly, a sizeable amount of the wall has been vandalised and eroded but it does not take away from the messages of love and peace they are trying to convey and restoration is always ongoing. It is such a vibrant exhibition and costs absolutely nothing to experience this man made wonder of the world.
Below are three of my favourite paintings from the gallery.
(My favourite quote from the Berlin Wall)
(The Famous Fraternal Kiss)
(Windows of the World)
Luckily managing to beat most of the rain on my first day, I was particularly relived I did as much walking as I did (approx. 8 miles) as when I opened my curtains on Day 2, it was heavy rain. I can’t wait to share my final instalment of my trip with you soon!
Reader, I have not been abroad in 18 months thanks to a demanding work schedule. As soon as I left my job, it was time to start booking! Berlin has always been on my bucket list so naturally it’s where I had to go first. So here is the first of a few blogposts about my time in Berlin.
(Berlin’s Wettest July on Record!)
So the weather was not on my side during my trip according to the forecast. However it wasn’t going to dampen my spirits. Luckily on Tuesday there was enough dry(ish) weather to explore the city by foot.
I started my day at Breitscheidplatz, where my hotel was based. It is the main square of West Berlin and is full of shops, a plethora of smells and chatter from the endless streams of restaurants and coffee shops. The atmosphere was electric at all times of the day. I explored the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial church. What a beautiful building which was severely damaged during World War II and the original spire has been left as a memorial to the destruction the city faced during the war. It is dubbed ‘The Hollow Tooth’ by Berliners.
(Left: Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church. Top Right: Breakfast. Bottom Right: Bullet and schrapnel damage on the church exterior)
Next it was off east to a cluster of the most popular sites in the city within minutes of each other. I started off at the Reichstag building and then down to the Brandenburg Gate and the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe. It was particularly sad at the disrespect some tourists groups had jumping off the blocks and posing for photographs.
However a great secret throughout the city are the ‘Stolperstein‘ or ‘Stumbling Blocks’ which are small 4 inch brass plates with the names and life dates of victims of Nazi extermination and persecution. They are placed on the pavement by the individuals last known address or workplace before they fell victim to the atrocities of Nazi Germany.
(Left: Reichstag Building. Top Right: Brandenburg Gate.
Bottom Right: Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe)
I started meandering through the streets, looking for St Hedwig’s Cathedral and ended up stumbling upon Gendarmenmarkt and the beautiful churches in the square: The Französischer Dom, Neue Kirche and The Konzerthaus. Around this part of town, it is so easy to get distracted by the beautiful architecture!
(Left: Französischer Dom. Top Right: Konzerthaus. Bottom Right: St. Hedwig’s Cathedral)
Having finally found St. Hedwig’s Cathedral, I made my way to Museum Island to explore the Berliner Dom. I have seen some incredible feats of design on my travels and I have to say this is one of the most beautiful. If you get the train from Alexanderplatz to Friedrichstrasse, as I did getting the train from the airport, you get a spectacular view of this cathedral as a nice introduction to the city.
(Berliner Dom with the TV Tower in the background)
Heavily damaged during World War II, it has undergone a painstaking restoration, finally the Wedding Church and Baptistery were opened in 1980 with the nave finally opening in 1993, which was televised nationwide.
(Top Left: The alter. Bottom Left: The Organ.
Top Right: The dome. Bottom Right: The Baptistery & Wedding Church)
As well as exploring the beautiful interior, I climbed up to the top of the dome. Reader, I am absolutely terrified of heights! But I climbed all 270 steps to the top and saw the most incredible view of the city. If was definitely a big accomplishment for myself and I am so glad that I took a photo, albeit with a very shaky hand to prove that I did it!
(View from the Top of the Dome)
After a lovely morning, it was time to have a spot of lunch and head to my next adventure. I can’t wait to tell you where I wandered off to.